Card conditions: M, NM, SP, MP, HP and DMG explained

Two copies of the same card can have very different prices. Most of the time, the reason is condition: how much wear the card shows.

Collectors use short codes for it. Here they are, from best to worst.

The six levels

Shops and collectors do not all judge exactly the same, so treat this as a guide, not a law. In DeckMaster, the default for a new card is NM.

What each level looks like

We look at eight things: edges, corners, surface scratches, whitening, creases, bends, water damage and centring.

M — Mint

• Edges: smooth and clean, with no white at all.
• Corners: sharp and square.
• Surface scratches: none, even when you tilt the card in the light.
• Whitening: none.
• Creases and bends: none.
• Water damage: none.
• Centring: the borders look even all the way round.

Mint is very rare for cards that came out of a pack and were played with or even just opened. Many cards pick up a tiny mark when they are made, packed or shuffled. If you are not sure, call it NM.

NM — Near Mint

• Edges: clean. One or two tiny white dots at most.
• Corners: sharp. A very slight softness is fine.
• Surface scratches: none you can see without tilting the card. Maybe one hairline scratch.
• Whitening: a tiny speck.
• Creases and bends: none.
• Water damage: none.
• Centring: may be a little uneven. Many sellers still call it NM.

This is the usual "pulled from a pack and put straight in a sleeve" card.

SP — Slightly Played / Soft Played

• Edges: light white along some of the edge.
• Corners: a little soft or lightly rubbed.
• Surface scratches: a few light scratches or one small scuff.
• Whitening: light, on several edges or corners.
• Creases and bends: no creases. A very faint bend may show in the light.
• Water damage: none.
• Centring: not a reason to change the level by itself.

MP — Moderately Played

• Edges: clear white along most edges.
• Corners: rounded or worn on more than one corner.
• Surface scratches: many scratches or scuffs, easy to see.
• Whitening: clear, on the front and the back.
• Creases and bends: a light crease or a gentle bend is allowed.
• Water damage: none, or a very faint mark.
• Centring: not used to set the level.

HP — Heavily Played

• Edges: lots of white, maybe small nicks.
• Corners: very rounded or frayed.
• Surface scratches: deep scratches, rubbing or ink wear.
• Whitening: heavy all around.
• Creases and bends: strong creases or clear bends, but the card is still flat enough to play in a sleeve.
• Water damage: slight warping or stains are possible.
• Centring: hard to judge next to the other wear.

DMG — Damaged / Destroyed

• Edges: torn, peeled or chewed.
• Corners: bent over, torn or missing.
• Surface scratches: deep gouges, peeling layers or writing.
• Whitening: it hardly matters any more.
• Creases and bends: hard folds, big bends or a card in pieces.
• Water damage: swollen, warped, stained or mouldy.
• Centring: does not matter.

DMG also covers destroyed cards: torn in half, soaked or burnt. Such a card is mostly a keepsake, not something to sell.

How to check a card in 30 seconds

1. Wash and dry your hands. Hold the card by its edges.
2. Take it out of the sleeve. A sleeve can hide small marks or add its own scratches to what you see.
3. Find good light. A window or a desk lamp works well.
4. Tilt it slowly so the light slides over the card. Scratches and dents on shiny parts show up like magic.
5. Look at the four corners and then the four edges for white spots.
6. Turn it over and do the same on the back. The back is where whitening shows most.
7. Lay it flat and look along the edge. A card that rocks or curves has a bend.
8. Pick the level by the worst thing you found, not the best.

When you are unsure, pick the lower level. It is better to surprise a friend in a good way than to disappoint them.

How condition changes the price

Think of NM as the reference price. That is the price you see for a card most of the time.

• A Mint card usually sells for about the same as NM, and sometimes a little more to a picky buyer.
• SP usually sells a bit lower than NM.
• MP sells lower again.
• HP sells for much less than NM.
• DMG is the lowest. Many buyers do not want it at all, unless the card is very rare.

How big each step is depends on the card, the set and the buyer. A very popular card may drop less. A cheap card may not be worth sorting at all.

DeckMaster needs a number to show your collection value, so it uses its own estimates. It starts from the NM price and then multiplies:

These are DeckMaster's estimates, not market prices, and real sales can be higher or lower. That is why values in the app are always marked as approximate. Read more in "How prices work in DeckMaster".

Grading companies are a different thing

You may hear about PSA, CGC or BGS. These are independent companies that inspect a card, give it a number score and seal it in a hard plastic case. That is called professional grading. It costs money and is separate from the codes in this guide.

• M, NM, SP, MP, HP and DMG are the quick descriptions people use when they trade or sell cards in sleeves.
• A grading company's score belongs to that company's own scale. The two do not convert one to one. A card you call NM may get a very different score.
• DeckMaster is not connected to any of these companies, and we do not grade cards.

Keep your cards in shape

• Put each card in a soft sleeve, then in a binder or a box. For cards you care about, add a stiff top loader.
• Choose sleeves that fit well. A loose sleeve lets the card slide and rub its corners.
• Do not leave cards in the sun, in a hot car or in damp places. Light fades them and wet paper warps.
• Do not use rubber bands, tape or sticky notes on a card.
• Do not stuff a binder page. Cards should slide in with no push.
• Stand boxes upright and keep them full, so cards cannot lean and bend.
• Handle by the edges, and keep snacks and drinks far away.

If you add a card to DeckMaster, pick the level that matches what you see today. If a card gets worn later, you can change it.